Having traveled all the way over to France, we decided to tack on a few days to the end of the trip to have a little beach vacation for just us three-- a kind of "baby moon" before we are once again inundated with sleepless nights and dirty diapers. Raphael suggested we go to
Corsica, fabled island of the French and Italian coasts and home of Napoleon.
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| Classic view in Corsica |
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It sounded exotic and wonderful to me, and I readily agreed. One of the first things I did (after we had already booked the flight) was google Corsica to get inspired about the trip, and I came across
this article, from BBC, proclaiming that Corsica has the highest murder rate in all of Europe. Lovely. I asked Raphael if he had an ulterior motive to get rid of me, permanently! :) Sure enough, we learned from other French friends and family that Corsica has a reputation for having a highly organized mafia, however it is not directed at tourists... unless said tourist buys property in Corsica but does not utilize local builders, contractors, etc. Then the Corsicans will bomb your house. Apparently this reputation is so well known, there are tee shirts depicting a house being blown up, on sale for tourists. Another main tourist export, on sale in every shop, is a hand-carved switch blade knife with the word "VENDETTA" carved into the handle. I am serious. The guidebook spoke about all this, and we learned that basically because Corsica changed hands so many times (Italian, French, and other conquerors) and were always far away from the "main land" of whatever ruler, they developed a kind of protocol of meting out their own justice and distrust of foreign rule. The region is extremely separatist. Evidence of this includes the
official logo of Corsica (a black revolutionary head with a white headband), as well as the street signs, which are all written in both French and I suppose the local dialect, however with the French eradicated by graffiti. (Another tourist tee shirt depicts the signs with bullet holes strewn through the French name of the places).
Despite this, we truly found the people extremely friendly and helpful, we never felt in danger, and we had a wonderful time. Tourism is their main export, and clearly owners of $25 million yachts feel comfortable docking there, so I think it is more legend and touristic reputation than reality (despite the BBC report of the murder rate....?).
We stayed in
Bonafacio, the southern most point of Corsica. Our hotel was really lovely (for the most part... our room was next to a farm so we had a small fly problem as well as roosters waking us at 5 AM), and the beaches were other-worldly. We stayed four full days and I think that was the perfect amount. It is not the easiest get from one town to the next because of the extremely winding roads, and other than beaches, there is not much else to do. After a full day at the beach, we were all exhausted anyway. The highlight was traveling one day by boat to an
uninhabited island, Isle Lavezzi, off the coast of Bonafacio. It is a nature preserve, so there are no buildings, no shops, nothing for sale. We packed a picnic of cheese, bread,
bresaola , cantaloupe and chips and had one of the best days I can remember. Henry had a blast on the (treacherous) boat ride, calling it "the best day of [his] life!" (He also declared the next day the other best day of his life on account of the copious volumes of french candy we bought him.)
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| The boys at the beach on the Isle Lavezzi. |
The last thing of note about Bonafacio is the town itself is perched on the cliffs. It is quite the sight to see from the water below, and it is a charming and very small little town, perfect for dinner and strolling around in the evenings.
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| Bonifacio | |
All in all we had a really lovely, relaxing time. I will definitely think back on this trip fondly and remember chilling at the beach with my two favorite guys.
Here is a link to all the pictures from Corsica.