Here is a link to an interesting article about Camembert from business week that Raph sent to me. Specifically it is about the fight between France's biggest producer of Camembert, (who, on one side, is lobbying to change the official recipe/definition of Camembert to include that made with cheaper, pasteurized milk) and everyone else- from local Normandy farmers to basically all of France, (who want to prohibit this change, and have Camembert continue to be defined as made with raw milk only). It seems that it has become a matter of French national identity and pride, and the traditionalists are winning.
The article is fairly long, but well written, and offers an interesting glimpse into an aspect of the french national psyche.